Annapurna Circuit, Tilicho and Annapurna Sanctuary

The start of this trek was not quite so straight forward as the last, where we more or less walked out of Kathmandu. First we had to get to Pokhara, where we spent a few days in this fantastic little town on a lake and in the shadow of Machhapuchhare. Then it was 2 more crowded, bumpy and chicken filled buses to the start of the trek at Bhulbhule. Many people take a jeep further up to Manang, as now there is a ‘road’ through some of the circuit, but we decided to walk (we were there to walk anyway so why not!), and there were plenty of ‘short cuts’ to avoid the road. To be honest ‘road’ is possibly not the most accurate description for it was-more like’ slightly larger dirt track with a couple of tourist jeeps a day and a motor bike or two’. The road, it seems, was having an impact on the towns at the beginning of the circuit, who have had trekker tourism for 30 years; at the first night’s tea house there was a sign which said “Thanks for not taking the bloody road!” It was noticeably quieter in terms of other trekkers on the ‘road’ bit anyway, which we enjoyed. The landscape went from green cultivated terraces, to lush and humid forests, and then up to the valleys, where they widened and became flanked by high snowy peaks



Up we go!

"Who's that clap trapping over my bridge?"

Annapurna II

The Marsyangdi Nadi Valley



The cute village of Upper Pisang

Prayer Mani

Amazing breakfast spot (though a 2hour climb to get there!)

Gompa with a view

'King of the world!'

When we reached Manang (where the tourist office reported the night time temperature to be an icy -15 degrees….. Brrrrrrr……), we decided to take a side trip to Tilicho, hoping to get to Tilicho base camp at 4160 meters- good for acclimatization for the big pass to come-and maybe further on to Tilicho lake. The route, which was a glorious high traverse along the valley after a steep climb, was absolutely spectacular. Along the way we met a couple of other hikers who gave us a warning about a ‘tricky’ section and telling us that we would need crampons and poles to reach the lake. This info seemed a bit daunting, but on the melodramatic side! Then we reached the ‘tricky’ bit: 2 kms of high path along a landslide area, where the dangers came from not only falling off the tiny path and into the abyss below, but also from rocks bludgeoning you by tumbling down the sheer slip face. I was absolutely terrified. We made it across, with only one near death experience from falling rocks, and to Tilicho base camp, which was gloriously warm in the sunshine……and deathly freezing once the sun sank below the mountains!

High levels of concentration so as not to fall off the path

 

The path to the lake did look treacherous- covered with snow and ice so we heeded the advice of being crampon-less and headed back to the main trail and back to the circuit. Apart from the initial treachery of the landslide and a few ‘stepping stones’ covered with ice, it was beautiful high traverse all the way across to the main track in the Manang Valley. I have to admit here that I have a total (irrational) fear of stepping stones (and log bridges for that matter). It really is ridiculous, and I know it. In trying to psyche myself into crossing said stepping stones I said out loud, “What’s the worst that can happen? I'll just get  my boots wet?” To which James replied, ‘You could hit your head on a rock and bash your brains out", which was NOT reassuring. Thanks James! Thankfully all obstacles were successfully navigated- more or less, even with visions of serious injury.

More of a grimace that a grim........do we really have to do that again??!!

Made it!

The next big event on the circuit was crossing the pass, Thorong La, at a whopping 5416 meters.  Thorong Phedi, the village we stayed the night at before crossing, was a surprisingly sophisticated (if chilly) little place at 4450 meters, serving up pizzas and Italian coffee! The next morning it was an early start to begin climbing. I was really feeling the altitude for the first few hours and thought I would never make it, but fortunately I finally found a rhythm, and eventually made it to the top!

Beautiful views as we climb up to the pass Thorong La

Are we there yet?

 

Made it!!

What goes up must come down, and of course, on top of the climb, then we had the descent to Muktinath before we could hang up our boots for the night, which was down 1750 meters of icy scree……not nice going and tough on the knees (and bum….I fell over twice!).  From then on in the scenery changed into arid and baron mountains topped by snowy peaks with precariously placed villages. Beautiful. One of our favourite places as we made our way down the Kali Gandaki valley was the flower and orchard filled 'apple capital of Nepal' –Marpha- where you could get a very decent glass of cider. It was pretty much like the scrumpy cider you get in Cornwell, though each glass seemed to vary wildly in taste and colour! By this stage we were back on the ‘road’ bit of the circuit, which we managed to avoid almost altogether thanks to some beautiful new tracks that have been created which take you through the alpine forest. Any road bits were fine- there was a strike on because of the up and coming elections, so no traffic at all. 

Jahrokot Village

'The hills are alive.......' on the way to Jomsom

Kali Gandaki Valley

Annapurna South at sunset

T-shirt weather!

Beautiful!!

 

We then linked into the Annapurna Sanctuary trek, which is known for its stairs! And stairs there were. Lots of them and a lot of up and downs! Even though the altitudes were lower than on the circuit, the Sanctuary felt tough! But the rewards were the magnificent views of the Annapurnas and Machhapuchhare from Annapurna Base camp (or as all the cool kids call it ABC). When we were looking across at the glacier, you could hear its ice crackling and crumbling....incredible.

'Fishtale' view of Machhapuchhare

Relaxing at 'ABC'

Prayer flags and Machhapuchhare at ABC

James at ABC

Sunset on Machhapuchhare

Sunrise on Annapurna I

Getting ready to face yet more stairs at Chumrong

Last view of Machhapuchhare, but not the last of the stairs!!!

So down we went and back to Pokhara for a few days rest and relaxation and the usual post trek wine and steak binge! I was also pretty excited to  find a place that did eggs benedict. James was excited to find prawn cocktail, but not so much now as he has just had the last few days being really sick, and doesnt even think he can manage a post trek pizza yet. Not good!  And what next? Flights are booked to Lukla, and we will be heading the Everest region for a bit more. Still haven’t had enough of this beautiful place!