Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Valley



I want to start by saying that James needed some convincing to do this trek. He always needs a bit of prodding and poking to do anything that he perceives as ‘touristy’. I usually counter this by saying that things are popular for a good reason and not to be missed. Our previous experiences travelling (and of course common wisdom) have shown that I am usually right and James is wrong. James was dragged kicking and screaming to Timbuktu, which ended up being a highlight of our Africa trip- this is just one of many examples, of which I can now add trekking in the Everest Region, alongside a million other every day examples, too numerous to list here! (YES TRUE...SO THAT'S TIMBUKTU..AND EVEREST...IN 10 YEARS...JT). The Everest Base Camp trek apparently can be, in peak season, a ‘trekking highway’ and is sometimes referred to as the ‘coca cola’trail, because of the number of people and facilities on it. However, we had such a brilliant time in other trekking regions, we thought that we would give it a go and, at the beginning of December (winter!) we would be well and truly be in the ‘off-peak’ season.

It was going to be a lot colder than our other experiences, so armed with down jackets, furry socks and an extra pair of gloves, we set off to see what makes Everest the Number One trekking destination in the world. The journey started with a ride in a tiny plane to Lukla, on which we were the only passengers (how is that for out of season travel!), and the emergency exit was –alarmingly- blocked by bags of rice (supplies, but also presumably to balance out the plane). The plane ride was fantastic-incredible views, and we were flying very low, basically in the valleys and right alongside the mountains. The pilots were impressive: these guys were flying with little more instrumentation than a Garmin V GPS and line of sight. James started saying “You were right Lee” about half an hour into the first day's walking. A few hours later he was saying “This is much better than the Annapurna’s” (big call….the Annapurna’s were amazing). And it was. It surpasses all our other trekking experiences. The path itself is incredible, well made and maintained, traversing the valley with beautiful and ever changing scenery where ever you look. And that is just day one.

Prayer walls

Prayer wheel

We got to Namche Bazaar two days into the trek. It was a surprisingly sophisticated little place, complete with an Irish Pub and bakeries galore. At 3500 meters, Namche is a usual acclimatization stop, though finding out as we arrived that we had skype interviews, we stayed here for a couple of extra days. Doing an interview on the way to Everest base camp makes for a memorable professional experience, and the tough questions are not exactly the ones you might expect.........Exactly how formal can you look in a fleece? Even though the temperatures in the room are below freezing, should you take of your beanie and gloves during the interview? Is that rattling in the roof mice, and how much will that put me off when asked to describe an outstanding lesson? It was a surreal experience and I wish I had taken a picture of our interview technical ‘set up’. To get the phone in the right position, height and in the best light (getting anywhere in Nepal trekking lodges with more than a 60 watt light bulb is impossible) we had it precariously balanced on a drum and bin. Our interview ‘get up’ was pretty much our only clothes- what we trek in. Classy

Anyway, interview hilarity aside, we liked Namche a lot. And it was just over the ridge from Namche that we saw our first glimpse of Everest. I was surprised by how excited I was to see it, though at that first view point it was a little spec of its mighty self.

The incredible path up the valley after Namche....Everest looking small to the left!

Ama Dabla, an amazingly shaped mountain

Fabulous path- love those high traverses!

Along the valley floor

Along the valley from Pheriche

Awesome views up the valley

It was up,up and up the valley. Because of our previous treks we were mastering the art of going up and, one day, we found ourselves gaining 900 meters in altitude and all of a sudden we were at Lobuche at 4900 meters. This proved to be a bit too much altitude in one day at this height, and we (well me, James seems to be super human) felt the real effects of altitude for the first time and we had to stay put the following day to acclimatise. It was then further up to Gorak Shep, where we slept at a massive 5100 meters, then climbing up to Kala Patar at 5550 meters for an incredible view of Everest and the surrounding mountains. The climb was really, really tough- because of the altitude as well as the temperatures and the wind chill factor. I don’t think I have ever felt that cold- or possibly walked that slow! It really was all I could do to put one foot in front of the other. Dizziness set in right at the top, though a restorative mars bar seemed to do the trick (I can see an advertising campaign now!) and I could actually walk down the mountain myself rather than be carried! Altitude issues aside, the views were worth it! On the way down we heard a rumble and looked over to the side of the glacier, where we saw a mini avalanche. Nature at its most spectacular and powerful.



Panorama from Kala Patar

Me and Everest (left)....still not looking the biggest though!

Everest pn the left and Nuptse in the middle

Everest

Coming down from Kala Patar

The next day we walked along the glacier from Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp which, unfortunately, did not have any expeditions camped up there (not the season- apparently the last one came down 2 weeks earlier). Even though you don’t get a good look at Everest from the base camp walk, it still felt pretty cool to be  at such am epic location . And it was literally cool as well; the temperature starting out from Gorak Shep at 8am that morning was a balmy negative 13 degrees celsius! It was a very chilly walk alongside the glacier, but fortunately the sun hit the valley just as we arrived at the prayer flags near base camp, which was a good thing as my fingers were about to drop off with the cold.

Along the glacier to Everest Base Camp

Freezing @ Base Camp

Gokyo Valley

James and Ama Dabla

Frozen waterfall

Ama Dabla

We had originally planned to walk over the Cho La pass to Gokyo, but the conditions sounded a bit treacherous because of the ice (even a big tough Aussie bloke we met said he was terrified on the pass), so we decided to take the long way around, heading back down the valley and up the other side of the Gokyo Valley. I can say Gokyo is one of the most stunning places that I have ever been. There are 5 lakes in total and, at the 3^rd lake, where the village is, the lake takes on a life of its own; with wind blowing over the water as the sun goes down and it freezes over, it makes its presence known with an eerie, melancholy noise, a bit like the sounds that whales make. In the day time, when climbing around the lake, when the unfrozen water laps the frozen section, it makes a tinkling sound, like wind chimes. Beautiful. From here you climb up Gokyo Ri, for a view that I think rivals that from Kala Patar. Everest looks big here. It also helped that the weather on Gokyo Ri was perfect- crystal clear blue skies and very little wind. The day time conditions were perfect, but the nights were really cold in Gokyo. We are talking your breath making icicles on the outside of your sleeping bag cold. Freezing your tooth paste cold. Never mind the fact that you couldn’t keep any water unfrozen the whole time you were up there. Cold!

Gokyo Lake

Lake panorama

Heading up to Gokyo Ri



Can't get enough of the gorgeous lake

Mighty Everest



Everest from Gokyo Ri



Gokyo Lake



Panorama from Gokyo Ri



So all though we were sad to leave the beauty of Gokyo, we headed back down the valley, towards Namche, with a spring in our step: 3500 meters was sure to feel positively tropical, and there was the promise of Guinness in the Irish Pub and a hot shower. When we emerged from the Irish Pub later on the night we arrived in Namche we were greeted with a dusting of snow. We have been unbelievably lucky with the weather the whole time in Nepal, so it wasn’t too much of a hardship to don our waterproofs and spend our last day walking through the snow- and as we were going through pine forests it felt positively Christmassy!

When we arrived at Lukla, we found out that there had been no flights for 3 days because of bad weather and that the forecast didn’t have it clearing until the 27^th December. It is a notorious airport for bad weather closures. We settled in for a few days of waiting it out and the little village filled up with stranded trekkers.  It was quite entertaining at times: people would gather in the coffee shops, where “Titanic” and “Jurassic Park” were playing; hilarious, yet serious conversations about chartering Helicopters were had (it would have been excellent to fly out by chopper); angry and teary conversations with airlines and insurance companies were over heard; plans to walk out were formulated, 3 days of walking through snow to get to the nearest road, ending in a bumpy 24 hour jeep ride to get to Kathmandu. After 2 days we were considering walking out, when, as if by some miracle, the skies cleared and it looked like flying out was back on. I have to say it was extremely efficient- they cleared that town in just a few hours, with planes shuttling people to and from Kathmandu, not even switching off the propellers in between landing and boarding. They turned planes around in minutes. Even so I didn’t get my hopes up until we actually boarded as the cloud was getting lower and lower. The flight was pretty bumpy and slightly terrifying in that small plane being affected by the weather kind of way!

So we are back in Kathmandu, where a Christmas dinner at Kilroy's, with all the trimmings (even mulled wine I found out today!) has our name on it, and on the 27^th December, we will be boarding a plane to Thailand for some beach action. I am really excited about feeling warm!  But, we have loved Nepal, and I don’t think it will be too long before we return.

Annapurna Circuit, Tilicho and Annapurna Sanctuary

The start of this trek was not quite so straight forward as the last, where we more or less walked out of Kathmandu. First we had to get to Pokhara, where we spent a few days in this fantastic little town on a lake and in the shadow of Machhapuchhare. Then it was 2 more crowded, bumpy and chicken filled buses to the start of the trek at Bhulbhule. Many people take a jeep further up to Manang, as now there is a ‘road’ through some of the circuit, but we decided to walk (we were there to walk anyway so why not!), and there were plenty of ‘short cuts’ to avoid the road. To be honest ‘road’ is possibly not the most accurate description for it was-more like’ slightly larger dirt track with a couple of tourist jeeps a day and a motor bike or two’. The road, it seems, was having an impact on the towns at the beginning of the circuit, who have had trekker tourism for 30 years; at the first night’s tea house there was a sign which said “Thanks for not taking the bloody road!” It was noticeably quieter in terms of other trekkers on the ‘road’ bit anyway, which we enjoyed. The landscape went from green cultivated terraces, to lush and humid forests, and then up to the valleys, where they widened and became flanked by high snowy peaks



Up we go!

"Who's that clap trapping over my bridge?"

Annapurna II

The Marsyangdi Nadi Valley



The cute village of Upper Pisang

Prayer Mani

Amazing breakfast spot (though a 2hour climb to get there!)

Gompa with a view

'King of the world!'

When we reached Manang (where the tourist office reported the night time temperature to be an icy -15 degrees….. Brrrrrrr……), we decided to take a side trip to Tilicho, hoping to get to Tilicho base camp at 4160 meters- good for acclimatization for the big pass to come-and maybe further on to Tilicho lake. The route, which was a glorious high traverse along the valley after a steep climb, was absolutely spectacular. Along the way we met a couple of other hikers who gave us a warning about a ‘tricky’ section and telling us that we would need crampons and poles to reach the lake. This info seemed a bit daunting, but on the melodramatic side! Then we reached the ‘tricky’ bit: 2 kms of high path along a landslide area, where the dangers came from not only falling off the tiny path and into the abyss below, but also from rocks bludgeoning you by tumbling down the sheer slip face. I was absolutely terrified. We made it across, with only one near death experience from falling rocks, and to Tilicho base camp, which was gloriously warm in the sunshine……and deathly freezing once the sun sank below the mountains!

High levels of concentration so as not to fall off the path

 

The path to the lake did look treacherous- covered with snow and ice so we heeded the advice of being crampon-less and headed back to the main trail and back to the circuit. Apart from the initial treachery of the landslide and a few ‘stepping stones’ covered with ice, it was beautiful high traverse all the way across to the main track in the Manang Valley. I have to admit here that I have a total (irrational) fear of stepping stones (and log bridges for that matter). It really is ridiculous, and I know it. In trying to psyche myself into crossing said stepping stones I said out loud, “What’s the worst that can happen? I'll just get  my boots wet?” To which James replied, ‘You could hit your head on a rock and bash your brains out", which was NOT reassuring. Thanks James! Thankfully all obstacles were successfully navigated- more or less, even with visions of serious injury.

More of a grimace that a grim........do we really have to do that again??!!

Made it!

The next big event on the circuit was crossing the pass, Thorong La, at a whopping 5416 meters.  Thorong Phedi, the village we stayed the night at before crossing, was a surprisingly sophisticated (if chilly) little place at 4450 meters, serving up pizzas and Italian coffee! The next morning it was an early start to begin climbing. I was really feeling the altitude for the first few hours and thought I would never make it, but fortunately I finally found a rhythm, and eventually made it to the top!

Beautiful views as we climb up to the pass Thorong La

Are we there yet?

 

Made it!!

What goes up must come down, and of course, on top of the climb, then we had the descent to Muktinath before we could hang up our boots for the night, which was down 1750 meters of icy scree……not nice going and tough on the knees (and bum….I fell over twice!).  From then on in the scenery changed into arid and baron mountains topped by snowy peaks with precariously placed villages. Beautiful. One of our favourite places as we made our way down the Kali Gandaki valley was the flower and orchard filled 'apple capital of Nepal' –Marpha- where you could get a very decent glass of cider. It was pretty much like the scrumpy cider you get in Cornwell, though each glass seemed to vary wildly in taste and colour! By this stage we were back on the ‘road’ bit of the circuit, which we managed to avoid almost altogether thanks to some beautiful new tracks that have been created which take you through the alpine forest. Any road bits were fine- there was a strike on because of the up and coming elections, so no traffic at all. 

Jahrokot Village

'The hills are alive.......' on the way to Jomsom

Kali Gandaki Valley

Annapurna South at sunset

T-shirt weather!

Beautiful!!

 

We then linked into the Annapurna Sanctuary trek, which is known for its stairs! And stairs there were. Lots of them and a lot of up and downs! Even though the altitudes were lower than on the circuit, the Sanctuary felt tough! But the rewards were the magnificent views of the Annapurnas and Machhapuchhare from Annapurna Base camp (or as all the cool kids call it ABC). When we were looking across at the glacier, you could hear its ice crackling and crumbling....incredible.

'Fishtale' view of Machhapuchhare

Relaxing at 'ABC'

Prayer flags and Machhapuchhare at ABC

James at ABC

Sunset on Machhapuchhare

Sunrise on Annapurna I

Getting ready to face yet more stairs at Chumrong

Last view of Machhapuchhare, but not the last of the stairs!!!

So down we went and back to Pokhara for a few days rest and relaxation and the usual post trek wine and steak binge! I was also pretty excited to  find a place that did eggs benedict. James was excited to find prawn cocktail, but not so much now as he has just had the last few days being really sick, and doesnt even think he can manage a post trek pizza yet. Not good!  And what next? Flights are booked to Lukla, and we will be heading the Everest region for a bit more. Still haven’t had enough of this beautiful place!